Geomorphic Investigations of Tidal Inlets:
Applications in Coastal Engineering



This work focuses on relationships between wave climate, tides, sediment distributions, sea level, anthropogenic structures, and tidal inlets.  The U.S. Army Corps of Engineer’s Coastal Inlet Research Program funds the project.  The main objective of this project is to study the effects of inlet stabilization by engineering works on inlet geomorphology and inlet behavior over a long-term (decadal) time scale.  Sebastian Inlet on the Atlantic Coast of Florida and Shinnecock Inlet on Long Island, New York are being used as case studies.  The project methodology includes shoreline extraction from a database of aerial photography and the creation of gridded topographic surfaces from hydrographic surveys and beach profiles.  From these datasets, volume and spatial change calculations will be performed.  It is thought that spatial and temporal changes in the ebb/flood shoal system and associated sediment pathways can be statistically correlated to variations in sea level, wave climate, and engineering activities such as channel dredging and beach nourishment.



Long Island Study Area

 

The methodology for this portion of the case study consisted of the following steps:

 

1.    Obtain aerial imagery from the south shore of Long Island   from just east of Fire Island Inlet to Sagaponack Pond, east of Shinnecock   Inlet and Mecox Bay.  Aerial images were acquired for the following years: 1976, 1980, 1983, 1988, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, and 1999.

2.    Imagery imported into ESRI Arcview and aligned to1999 georeferenced USGS DOQQ's (Digital Ortho Quarter Quadrangles)            

3.    Using the BeachTools extension, shoreline shapefiles were created for each of the study years.  Then, a single baseline was created for use with all shorelines.  Once the baseline was created and the shoreline shapefiles were complete, transect lines were created at 25 foot intervals for the entire study area.  The transect lines created a table consisting of   numerical values for the vegetation line and saturation line.  These figures will be manipulated to create graphic interpretations of shoreline change over a period of time for the study area.

  For a detailed description of the procedure, click here.  To view local areas, click on the interactive map below.

Moriches Inlet Westhampton Shinnecock Inlet

 
  August 1976, Hurricane Belle
 

 Hurricane Belle was a Category 3 hurricane, with sustained winds of 105 knots.  Landfall was made early on August 10 on the south coast of Long Island. The point of landfall is estimated to be in the vicinity of Jones Beach on western Long Island.  Click here to view a storm surge map of a Category 3 hurricane hitting Long Island.
 
  September 1985, Hurricane Gloria
 
 Click here for more info on Hurricane Gloria.
 
  September 1985, Tropical Storm Henri
 
 August 1988, Tropical Storm Chris
 
 August 1990, Hurricane Bob
 
 August 1994, Tropical Storm Beryl
 
 July 1996, Hurricane Bertha
 
  September 1999, Hurricane Floyd
 
  Click here to read a USA Today article concerning the flooding of Long Island  caused by Hurricane Floyd.
   


For more info:
 
A History of Shinnecock Inlet Through Aerial Photos

Sea Conditions at Shinnecock Inlet
 
Shinnecock Inlet Tidal Benchmarks
 
USACE, NY District, Fire Island to Montauk Point
 
Fire Island Inlet to Moriches Inlet Interim Project
 
The Sand Thieves of Long  Island's South Shore

Troubled Waters:  Long Island Beach Replenishment
 
The  Great Hurricane of 1938--The Long Island Express

New England Hurricane  of 1938
 


 

Page created and maintained by Michelle Snyder
 sopeters@fit.edu